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Thursday, March 19, 2026

Hey Madhav!

 মাধব, বহুত মিনতি করি তোয়ে   

দেই  তুলসী তিল দেহ সমর্পিলু ,

দয়া জনি ছোড়বি মোয়ে। 

গনইতে দোষ গুণলেশ না পাইবি 

জব  তুঁহুঁ করবি বিচার ,

জগতের নাথ জগতে কহায়সি,

জগ বাহির নই মুই ছার। 

Probably Govindadas. More than 500 years ago. (I wrote this from memory, bits and pieces of which are fading now); read around 1981, in class 11 or 12. A rough translation would go as follows:

My Lord, I beg you fervently

Supplicating you with the ritual offerings (tulsi and til, basil leaf and sesame seed)

Please have mercy on me.

When the time comes for You to judge me, you will not find a trace of virtue, but

They call You the Lord of the world, 

Do remember, I, insignificant though I am

I do not exist outside this world.

The hour of judgment is approaching. Today, I can only supplicate: 'Lead, kindly light, for the night is dark, and I am far from home', or 

আরো কতদূরে সে আনন্দধাম ? 

And, as another Bengali adage goes,

বিশ্বাসে মিলায় কৃষ্ণ, তর্কে বহুদূর। 

Tuesday, March 17, 2026

The Fifteen: book review

Thanks to Swarnava and Pupu, I am engrossed in and being edified by a recently published book titled The Fifteen, which offers short, well-researched biographical sketches of the fifteen extraordinary women who played highly significant roles in framing the Indian Constitution between 1946 and '49. Remember, they were only 15 in a Constituent Assembly of 299 members (ultimately only 11 of them remained, and 284 in total signed the final Document) - all the others were males. Moreover, six of these fifteen were Bengalis, and all were deeply influenced by Tagore and Gandhi. Says a lot about many things, doesn't it? In a desperately poor, mostly illiterate and superstitious, rigidly orthodox, ferociously patriarchal society torn apart by civil war and massive two-way migration, it was a miracle that fifteen such could at all be found, though: highly educated, intelligent, self-confident, self-assertive, idealistic and patriotic women who looked many generations into the future while imagining the India of their dreams and left their own indelible stamp on the new nation state on the basis of which so many others both female and male have been building, with varying degrees of success, over the last eight decades. While paying my deepest respects to these women, I frankly admit that their stories take my breath away, especially when I compare their characters and achievements with those of the three latest generations of women I have lived alongside: a huge number of whom have no idea and don't care two hoots about how much they owe to these fiery pioneers for the often lazy, wasteful, dissolute, entitled and pointless, if not utterly selfish and vicious lives they are allowed to live today.

Among these, I already knew something of the works of Rajkumari Amrit Kaur, Sarojini Naidu (nee Chatterjee) and Vijay Lakshmi Pandit. It is a pity I knew hardly anything about Ammu Swaminathan, mother extraordinaire of Dr. Captain Lakshmi Sehgal of INA fame and sister of the redoubtable Mrinalini Sarabhai (as I become surer and surer with age, it's genes plus the first five years of upbringing that determine virtually everything, apart from who holds your hand in your youth!), or about Annie Mascarene, Begum Qudsia Rasul and Dakshayani Velayadhun (the only Christian, Muslim and Dalit woman members respectively), and too little about the likes of Renuka Ray and Sucheta Kripalani. I could wax eloquent and write reams in praise of each of these, ruing my unforgiveable ignorance of details for so long - but I choose here to write about one who has impressed me most: the following paragraphs should elucidate why.

All these women, by the way, were born to some kind of privilege: either they were born to rich and/or progressive parents, or married to highly supportive men, or they were high caste, or at least they had the benefit of a good education, which 99.9% of women in those days were denied. At the same time,  the point is that they worked to make better lives for the common woman and man, not just for themselves or their own little elite circles, and every one of them had to fight almost lifelong against all kinds of unfair obstacles and prejudices, often of the meanest sort which make me cringe in shame (like women cannot be doctors, poets or lawyers) yet they never soured up or gave up - I wish I myself could have remained so positive minded, so hopeful at my age. Anyway, as I was saying, my heroine of choice from this book happens to be Durgabai Deshmukh (1909-1981). What I find fascinating, nay, incredible, is that a girl born in those days, with all her social and familial handicaps, could know her mind so well even before she had outgrown childhood, rejecting her 'arranged' marriage at age eight (and persuading her in-laws' family at 15 that the marriage was impossible, so the man could and should marry someone else), setting up a girls' school at age 12, working for the the Congress party and refusing no less a personage than Jawaharlal Nehru himself at age 14 because he did not have a valid ticket for entry to an important meeting, and she had been tasked to refuse entry to all such arrivals (the modern 'advanced generation' child would not dream of dealing with even someone as trivial as her school headmistress that way, and recently two parents informed me that their girl children, of exactly the same age, cannot come to my class any more, because in the afternoons, they, the parents, would be at work, and such 'infants' cannot possibly dream of coming over on their own - though the fact remains that literally thousands like them have done so for close to four decades now!) My God, she even outstrips Abigail Adams and Rani Rashmoni, about whom I have written gushingly in this same blog long ago...

Still a child, she became a translator for Gandhiji whenever he visited the South. She quickly picked up some Tamil and a lot of Hindi, and actually became a Hindi teacher to hundreds (she was then all of 13). She learned English only in her early twenties. She refused all donations from tycoons of the stature of Jamnalal Bajaj except for books. She was jailed again and again, and actually asked to be housed with the lowest grade of prisoners, just to find out how badly they were treated. She graduated in political science, and then became a qualified lawyer at age 22. At 37, she was elected to the Constituent Assembly - if not the likes of her, then who? She argued forcefully on countless burning issues (read the book), and moved more than 750 amendments. Born into Telugu, coached excellently in Hindi, she fought for Hindusthani to be made the national language, considering the propagation of Hindi 'a serious obstacle to the growth of the provincial languages and a provincial culture', and that 'the narrative to turn Hindi above all other languages was embittering the feelings of the non-Hindi speaking people': Amit Shah, will you please note? She fought for Constitutional protection of the Fundamental Rights of citizens,  for lowering the age criterion for qualifying for a seat in the Rajya Sabha, arguing that being older doesn't necessarily mean wiser, and for a reformed Hindu Code Bill which would guarantee shares of daughters in their fathers' property. In the early days of free India, she served in very high and responsible positions in the Planning Commission and the Central Social Welfare Board, and also won numerous national and international awards, including the Padma Bibhushan. She prepared the first report of the National Education Policy for Women. Her marriage to C.D. Deshmukh, the first Indian Governor of the Reserve Bank of India, was a huge success. She died in his arms, as she had always longed to, and the loving and respectful tribute he paid to her in the book My Durgabai, is something that could be the dream of millions of smart, cool, modern-day women.

And this was just one of those fifteen stars. The rest I leave to the reader who buys and devours the book because I recommended it. I end with a sigh: why haven't I met such women in such a long and inquisitive life? I wish someone would write a book about 15 women who have worked wonders to improve India since 1947... and I shall still lament that I haven't had the good fortune to sit at the feet of any of them. Some females asked with reference to this blog many years ago about me... 'Does he respect only strong and determined and socially beneficent women'? Yes, guilty as accused. It's the same way I think about men, you see... all the rest, just making a living, raising families, thinking of nothing beyond the animal appetites of themselves and their families, I have always sneered at as polluters of the world... they eat, shit, breathe out carbon dioxide, preen over their cars, phones and kids' marks in school, grow old, sick, die and are quickly forgotten even by their own families within twenty years at most. What do they matter? And why should I 'respect' them... just because they look human? Since when did respect become so cheap?

[The Fifteen, by Angelica Aribam and Akash Satyawali, Hachette India 2024, pp. 310, Rs. 371 on Amazon]

Monday, March 09, 2026

Sundarban Safari

Last week, I finally toured the Sundarbans after having wished to do it for more than four decades. Much of my to-do list has now been checked. And, owing to the delightfully congenial company, this was one of the best vacations I have ever had, which is saying something, because I have travelled so much for so long with so many people to so many beautiful and interesting places. 

Having first gone off to Calcutta, we set off for the jungle on the morning of Wednesday, 25th February. There was my friend Saibal the wildlife enthusiast and his wife Kulbir ji, with whom I had travelled to Kanha a year ago. They had made all the arrangements, so I didn't have to lift a finger. Pupu and Swarnava went along without having to be persuaded too hard: I was thrilled, for this was the first time I was travelling with them since they became an 'item' (I hope I am using the word in the correct Gen Y/Z sense). There was Pratyush, who revels in our company. And there was Shoumo the actor (to me, who has actually seen him growing up before my eyes, he will always remain my beloved nitbor). It was a three-hour drive along the Basanti Highway to Gadkhali, across the water from the much better known Gosaba, where we parked our cars and boarded the launch Delta Queen, which could at a pinch seat 40 plus, at a quarter to twelve. The afternoon was already warm to hot, but balmy. The boat was very well-appointed, with clean little washroom and beds, though we, it goes without saying, spent almost all the time lounging on the deck as we manoeuvred between the mangroves along the distributaries with pretty names (like Vidyadhari), some of which were bigger and deeper than many rivers I have seen inland (and so green, so green), keeping our eyes skinned in the hope of catching fleeting glimpses of all sorts of wildlife, and knowing that tigers in hiding were very likely keeping an eye on us. 

No, we didn't see any tigers. Which certainly didn't disappoint me, firstly because I have seen enough in the wild already, secondly because the locals say only half in joke that it is best not to see one, the first sight being quite likely to be your last, since virtually all Sundarban tigers are maneaters, and essentially because I love the forest and the water for their own sake, and don't belong to that class of tourists who go around the Himalayas for days and lament that they 'saw nothing' if they couldn't catch a glimpse of Everest or Kanchenjungha. Lunch was delectable and sumptuous; we were dropped off at evenfall at a nice little riverside resort with large rooms and ample beds. We found a lot of friendly to ecstatic canine company, which, for the likes of us (Shoumo is an animal rights activist among other things) is always a welcome bonus. The evening was spent the way we like best, drinks and snacks and a lot of adda and laughter, slowly dozing off, somehow dealing with dinner (no slight to the cook), then off early to bed and sound sleep.

Swarnava, Pupu and Pratyush hate waking up at daybreak even more than I do, so we were all groggy and grumpy when boarding the boat (this one was named Sher Khan!) at 6.30 next morning. But the beauty of the sunrise through the mist and the chilly wind quickly stirred up everyone's spirits, aided by a hearty breakfast. I don't know how, but everyone had already become garrulous friends with everyone else (I believe I was the quietest of all), and it is unbelievable how fast eleven hours passed, with lunch in the middle and some of us dozing off for short spells now and then. The cameras were worked like crazy: we eventually figured that more than a thousand photos had been taken, making me sigh to remember the days when we took along film rolls in modest quantity, and worried about making every shot, every frame count. We saw all kinds of things, from myriad species of birds (including a rare sort of eagle, besides egrets, kingfishers, adjutant storks) to huge crocodiles, monitors big and small, swamp deer, wild boar, otter, mud skippers, monkeys, snakes ... and miles and miles of dense, unspoilt jungle. What dismayed was the factoid that the sea is encroaching ever deeper inland, so the waters have become brackish, and as a result the sundari tree, after which the forest is named, is becoming scarce - most of the flora is of the garjan and hental variety. Oh, and in the early morning we had stopped at a site which offered a watchtower, a shrine to Bonbibi and Dakshin Rai, a large freshwater watering hole and a botanical garden designed to educate us about the local vegetation.

Next morning, Swarnava, Pupu and I cried off the boat trip, I because I was exhausted after waking up so early three days in succession, and S and P because they had work to do online (the internet connection, weak to non-existent, had been quickly restored the first day itself). Pupu and I have done this more than once - we need time to unwind very slowly; that is essential to full enjoyment of any trip. Shoumo and Pratyush went off with Saibal and Kulbir for another eleven hour sail. Frankly, I enjoyed the day quite as much as all the other days, doing absolutely nothing: a bit of reading, playing with the dogs, delicious lunch of lobsters, and Pupu came to sleep beside me while Swarnava was working through the afternoon. Late in the evening, we went for a walk up to the edge of the jungle to catch sight of spotted owls across a rutted path over an embankment in deep darkness. A few of the doggies accompanied us, heaven knows why. Pupu walked with her arm entangled with mine. Bliss.

On Saturday we boarded the boat for the last time at about 8.30, and, after another five hour cruise and a hearty lunch, we were dropped off at Gadkhali. By that time, the boat manager and guide had become friends: 'Do come again', they urged. We set off at around 1.15, took the road through Baruipur and Kamalgaji, and were back at home at around 3.40. I heard later that Shoumo, who dropped off Pratyush later, was discussing how lonely they would feel after four days of such jolly and close camaraderie. All of them have since thanked me for coaxing them into making the trip, despite all their work and engagements, so that's a small victory I think I can be proud of. I want to make loved ones happy, and cannot have enough of their thanks when I succeed. I missed Sunandini and Koushik and Aveek badly. God bless you all.

To all readers, I shall urge: make this trip, but do ensure that you do it with true loved ones.

Finally, two things that impressed me: the authorities were very strict about not carrying disposable plastic water bottles on the boat, and not one of the numerous boats we saw, some crowded with passengers, was playing earsplitting 'music' on so-called DJ boxes. More power to the elbow of the Forest Department, and may the tigers live in peace.

Back in Calcutta, I went to renew my passport. The hassle was absolutely hateful, especially the coldness or downright bad manners of everyone except the final clearing officer. Then imagine queuing up for visas every time like a beggar, then the expense, then long layovers and not being able to smoke for hours and sitting cramped inside a tin tube for 7, 10, 15 hours at a stretch and often not even being able to talk much with the locals because of the language barrier... so much for the 'joys' of travelling abroad, and I thank my lucky stars for YouTube: I can do all the foreign travel I want from my bedroom, at virtually no expense and trouble at all. If I cannot travel abroad like a VVIP, to whom no rules apply, I am better off without trying. I do hope, however, that I can see more of my vast and still in places charming country before I die.

For photos, click here.

Monday, February 16, 2026

How time flies!



I am reading a book written by my great grandfather on my mother's side, the doctor (the others of my male ancestors of that generation I have never seen, not even my father's father. There was a self-made tycoon among them, my mother's maternal grandfather, but that's a story for another day). It is a novel based on his hospital days. I have mentioned him at least twice before (here's one). More and more he sounds to me like a Bengali A.J. Cronin. But that was not what I set out to write here.

It is mid-February. The laziest time of the year for me, because all classes have shut down prior to the annual examinations. This is when I have the most free time, and this is when I let it wander most guiltlessly. So it has been for a long time now. Lately I have been thinking about my lineage: all the generations I have seen. It is my belief that we are all very complicated and unique admixtures of the genes of many generations of ancestors; there is hardly anything about the 'me' in me that is completely new. I am sure, for example, that if you take my father and my dadu out of me, there will be virtually nothing left (oh, tiny bits and pieces of some much older ancestors, maybe). Anyway, the thing that I am musing over is that I have seen six successive generations of living people now. The oldest were my dadu's parents, then my grandparents, then there were my parents' generation, then mine, then my daughter's and now their children are being born: you can see me cradling the newest arrival in the vast extended family I have created; he is all of three months. Today's parents are being very late about it, so they will be lucky if they live long enough to see five generations. It has also been a very communicative family, so, besides everything I have read and seen about the world, I have witnessed living history for close to a hundred and fifty years. 

The most remarkable thing about this lived experience is that, unlike most people around me - especially those of my own generation and those up to twenty years younger - I do not believe that either the world or the people in it have really changed very much within the last two or three decades. Technology hoopla?  That doctor was using anesthesia and watching movies a century ago, and they had already invented the telephone, the aeroplane, radio and TV,  atomic bombs and computers before my grandpa was middle aged. Wars? They lived through two world wars; today we see firecrackers and skirmishes in Gaza and Ukraine. Women plying their wiles and men cheating or swooning over them? That sort of thing was old hat millennia ago. So was 'corruption' in politics and dirty tricks in business, so was mass unemployment and pathetic pay packets for the vast majority (brush up on your Chander Pahar and Jana Aranya). They survived horrible famines and epidemics; these days we are traumatized by CoVid, which, when the madness was all over, confirmed that the mortality rate stayed at no more than one per cent, regardless of what we did or didn't to 'contain' it. We have vastly more people and motor vehicles around; that's one big thing that has changed, certainly, but even around 1900 so many writers were talking about India's teeming millions, and today, even the 'poor', at least in cities, are on the whole better clothed and fed than when I was a child. 

That is one big reason, coupled with my own jadedness, why I find the world so increasingly tiresome and boring. Two things have definitely changed for the worse: people on the whole have become far weaker both in body and mind, far more easily dissatisfied and frustrated, far less willing and able to fight adversity despite having much more than their ancestors dreamt of  (some important lesson to be learnt here?), and good manners in public have almost vanished, at least in this country, at least in urban areas. Maybe folks are much more honest in expressing what they truly think and feel, which is a good thing, but couldn't that be done less loudly, less hurtfully, less crudely?

It is nearly two decades since I wrote a post here titled 'The world we are making for our children'. I have been reminded forcefully of it since this child was born. What a world he has been born in, sadly; how much he must struggle to find some peace and joy in it! I am also reminded of the terrible poem 'Prayer before birth' by Louis MacNeice. May this child and his generation therefore carry my blessings, and may those blessings be of some slight worth. People like me tried in very tiny ways to make the world a little better: I think most of us failed, and in any case, we are now too tired and timid and weak to do more.

Thursday, February 12, 2026

Heads up about that YouTube channel

I have been telling stories on my own channel on a playlist titled Goppoguchchho (which can be accessed by simply typing in 'Suvro Sir'). 46 episodes have been uploaded so far, one put up unfailingly every week. Another six, and I shall stop. I had planned to do 52 episodes - one full year - to see how it worked out, how many listeners and appreciative comments I got. It has been rather disappointing (especially the fact that those who said they liked it very much and want me to go on didn't, I think, do much to spread the word around). Anyway, that experiment will be over soon - another six weeks, actually - and I shall switch over to Spotify, where I shall be reciting poems, and telling stories exclusively for children. This last will be done essentially for family, so I wouldn't have to care how many or how few others listened in or bothered to draw in more listeners. 

I have said over and over again for nearly forty years that I work only for love or money. Where neither seems to be forthcoming, let us end our thankless labour.

This is for everybody's information only.

Sunday, February 01, 2026

Shattered Lands: book review

Sam Dalrymple, following in his famous father William's footsteps, shows considerable promise with his first book of becoming another erudite yet highly readable historian. He is apparently a very proud young man too: though he has thanked his dad and mum for their valuable and constant support, not once have they been mentioned by name anywhere in the book or even in the blurbs! And he too believes that weaving together archival research with private correspondence and interviews with old people who can narrate gripping stories from personal experience makes the best kind of book when you are writing recent history.

Shattered Lands, a story of how, with the rather hasty dissolution of the vast British Empire through the middle of the 20th century, the Raj era 'India' underwent five partitions (yes, five, starting with the separation of Burma in 1937, then the Arab Protectorates governed from Bombay, then the Great Partition of 1947, followed by the messy integration of 550-odd princely states, mostly with India and a few with Pakistan, and finally, the breakup of Pakistan leading to the blood-soaked birth of Bangladesh in 1971) is truly a monumental and admirable work. I cannot do justice to it in a short review, so, as I wrote at the end of my little essay on William D's 2016 book Nine Lives, I shall instead urge the reader to read it. This essay, rather, would pick up for comment only a few things that particularly stirred my interest.

To start with, I had heard quite a bit about the great post-partition exodus from Burma (which the writer calls the Long March) from my own elders, so reading that part was like re-living history, though I did not know that the Burma chapter, too, was so violent and complicated - that, for one thing, the Rohingya problem is certainly not a recent phenomenon as so many of us used to imagine. And frankly, I didn't know that, had the dice rolled otherwise, countries like Bahrain, Qatar, Kuwait and the UAE might just have been part of India still, making us one of the biggest oil producing nations in the world (no harm in fantasizing)! As for the princely states' story, sad and tumultuous as it was, can it be lumped together with the 'partition' narratives? The author evidently feels some sympathy for the princes who gradually lost everything, including all that was rich and good about their olde-worlde culture, especially seeing that some of them had actually helped in diverse small ways to hasten the departure of the British and joined the newly independent countries with remarkable alacrity (barring a few like Junagadh, Travancore, Kashmir and Hyderabad) - but in my opinion they had lived an archaic and hugely parasitic lifestyle for too long, and they should feel lucky they were not treated like the old aristocracy in Russia and China. Many of their descendants seem to have done very well for themselves in business, politics, and the world of the arts and letters; few are begging for alms on railway platforms.

As for the last two partitions, a very great deal has been said and written about them since the day I read Freedom at Midnight, so it is to the writer's credit that I still found it engrossing: it will certainly be of great educational value to any reader below 40 who does not have a degree in south Asian history. What can I say of any moment? I was moved, yet again, to visualize all the loss and suffering and shame and grief and destitution and death brought wantonly upon so many tens of millions of people who had no hand in shaping their destinies - actually beggars the imagination - who were mere pawns on a chessboard, being shifted around by tired, greedy, venal, vengeful politicians and bureaucrats in a hurry, who revelled in playing God. And so much, sadly, depended on mere accident and whimsy (like Mountbatten's inexplicable haste to transfer power, and his later lament that had he known Jinnah would be dead within the year, he would have never gone ahead with the partition plan). 

All this happened because of the haphazard and rapid dissolution of the British Empire. I recently heard Jeffrey Sachs making the off the cuff remark somewhere that almost all the lingering problems around the world created over the last 300 years can be traced back to the interference of the British. But, given how fractious and complex and violent  an admixture of races, languages, religions, castes, communities and kingdoms this enormous territory from Aden to Singapore was, perhaps it was only the relatively even-handed rod and whip and love of order imposed by the British that briefly held it together in a kind of grudging peace - though that idea has been endlessly mocked and reviled for more than a century now? Maybe if the British had only been a little more farsighted, a little less bullheaded, a little more committed to the welfare of their subjects and slow but continuous devolution of power, an incredible amount of human suffering could have been avoided? (by the way, I stand corrected on one crucial matter: there were great famines in south Asia even after independence, the responsibility for which, unlike in 1943, simply cannot be laid at the door of the Raj). Maybe that is what the Moderates in the early Indian Congress had wanted all along, and precisely for this reason, besides the fear that the newly freed lands would quickly revert to the chaotic late-medieval darkness they had just begun to emerge from? This paragraph, by the way, is purely my personal reflection, not something hinted (except maybe subliminally) at by Dalrymple himself.

Given the still very strong Anglo-American hegemony on scholarship, coupled with the ignorance and/or unconcern of the subcontinent's post independence rulers, too little is known across the world, even by educated people, about the titanic upheavals and traumas repeatedly suffered by the two-fifths of the human population that inhabits this part of the globe, whose after effects still continue to confuse and vitiate our contemporary political reality powerfully. As I read about the man whose citizenship was forcibly changed three times, dark forebodings about our present government's maniacal urge to get rid of all 'infiltrators' kept troubling my mind. Let me mention just one more thing about which I had heard but little in all these years: that the Bangladesh war was not just over language just as it was not over religion; that modern Bangladesh has insisted on officially forgetting and suppressing the fact that several non-Bengali languages still somehow survive in that country (Rakhine and  Kokborok and Chakma and even Chatgaiyya, which is not considered Bengali!), and that, contrary to popular mythology, the Mukti Bahini guerrillas did not exactly cover themselves with glory during the war of liberation - the horrible atrocities committed by the Pakistani army and their Razakars upon non-combatants were only much bigger in scale, that's all. No wonder so much long-simmering anger against the beneficiaries of the liberation has been coming to the surface in recent times... last but not the least, I found it most pitiable to read that so many people, arbitrarily separated by new and sudden borders, have found themselves to be permanently stateless, not just poor labourers, petty shopkeepers and marginal farmers but here and there a minor royal as well.

Having heaped so much praise, I hope I have earned the right to do a little bit of nitpicking. Too much sympathy has been shown for the likes of Jinnah and Patel, I think, given that they eventually acted so undemocratically, arbitrarily, covertly and violently, against so many of their supposedly 'own' people. And why should it be insinuated that the facts that actually very few British Indian soldiers joined the Azad Hind Fauz and that some of them turned renegades and criminals in later years show up Subhas Bose's inspirational power and leadership quality in a poor light? Wasn't he all along fighting almost impossible odds? And then there are howlers and typos scattered across 430-plus pages which could have easily been corrected with a little more careful editing. A man called Halvidar (not Havildar) Singh? The state of Dungarpur spelt Durgarpur? A temple in south India whose accumulated wealth, estimated at $22 billion, is thousands of times richer than the Vatican?! How do you describe a spring morning in the Kashmir Valley when the Pakistani irregulars were about to attack unless you were there yourself, or you cite some reliable source? How is a British Intelligence file 'secret' if you have been given access to it in order to write a book for public consumption? How do you make a statement like 'Indian intelligence had been working with East Bengali nationalists for a decade at this point' (29 April 1971, when the Indian Army was given direct orders to help the Mukti Bahini) - page 379 - without quoting an authentic official statement? And lastly, I wouldn't be as shocked as the partition researcher who, while talking to a teenaged cold drink seller in Dhaka, realized that he knew nothing about the partition(s) or even the Mukti Juddho and found it odd that an Indian could speak in Bengali: I guess you can find millions of young Indians, too, who know nothing about our history from, say, 1905 to 1971, and so will happily believe whatever poisonous garbage they are fed by the current rulers. As the wag said, 'The only thing we learn from history is that we learn nothing from history', and that 'history is only a fable that is generally agreed upon'. Also, alas, I can bet my shirt that such people would never read a book like this anyway.

This little bit of criticism is not meant to deride or devalue Dalrymple's work, only to suggest how it could be improved, and thereby made more reliable and valuable. I wish the author every success with his future endeavours, and shall look forward to reading his next book.

Many thanks, Rajdeep and Aveek, for urging me to read this book.

P.S.: A very angrily critical review can be found here.

[Shattered Lands: Five Partitions and the Making of Modern Asia, by Sam Dalrymple, Harper Collins 2025]

Friday, January 30, 2026

Book Fair

I was in Kolkata for three days, and visited the Book Fair after ages. Well, close to two decades, I should think. It was a leisurely jaunt on a balmy winter weekday afternoon.

I had worked as a volunteer at the stall of a little magazine called Proma (headed by the engineer-poet Surojit Ghosh, who was an insider in the city's literary/intellectual circle in the '80s) from 1980 (the fourth fair: this year it was the 49th, and Surojit-da is long dead!) to 1987. Then there was a big gap, and I visited again with wife and daughter after it had been shifted to the Milon Mela grounds next to Science City. By that time, it seemed to me, it had morphed into a food fair more than a Book Fair, though the Publishers' and Booksellers' Guild happily released figures about soaring sales year on year. And it had become too noisy, crowded and dusty. So I stopped going. In any case, I was busy making a living, and where books were concerned, I was spoilt for choice, what with so many old boys and girls constantly supplying me with reading material, my daughter foremost among them, besides Amazon. I had lost the taste, apparently, just as it had happened with going to the cinema. This year, I went because Pupu and Swarnava cajoled me along.

As every Bengali knows, the fairgrounds have shifted again, to Salt Lake this time. The visit brought back many memories, a sense of loss and a deepening of the feeling that our times are gone. The fair is much bigger now, much tidier in a way, with all kinds of stalls selling things which have little to do with books, from the National Jute Board to people who want to talk to farmers about fertilizers to a welter of recently born private universities. I visited the Proma stall, which was a tiny ghost of its former self, and the only gentleman running the show was at sea when I tried talking to him about days past and people whom I had worked with (wow, I silently reflected, the 'hot babes' I had worked alongside would be past sixty now!). I had promised myself to visit the Guruchandali stall, and had a nice chat with the founder/owner Saikat Banerjee. I was tickled to find that the Bangla Poksho stall, whose helmsmen were loudly berating the BJP government's anti-Bengali agenda, was located right next to the BJP's own stall - which was deserted! Do listen to these people on YouTube, those of my readers whose Bengali blood has still not been too polluted by influences from the cow belt. I liked the beautiful display of heritage publications set up by the state government, with Parvathi baul playing softly in the background. And I deliberately gave the big stalls like Family Book Shop, Ananda and Dey's a miss, because they were claustrophobically crowded, and could only offer books I can easily find elsewhere and more cheaply. P and S bought a small mountain of books anyway. Snacking at Saha Confectionery was fun, because their banner said 'Boi kinley kshidey paye' (buying books is hungry work)! Smoking on the fairgrounds is strictly prohibited, which I suppose is a good thing (though they could have put up a few few paid smokers' corners), and the enormous police presence made me wonder: were they expecting a large scale terrorist attack or a riot?

Riding an Uber cab home, I knew I was feeling tired and a little lost. I have never been able to like Calcutta, and now it has left me behind. Much more wealthy since the days of my youth, of course, maybe a little cleaner and greener too, but certainly not my city any more, in any sense, if it ever was. That is probably why I zoom into my daughter's house, laze and luxuriate for a few days, and then zoom back home, despite so many people telling me to visit them when I am in town. If Pupu had not been living there, I cannot think of a single reason why I should ever want to visit again. And that applies to New York as well... but it was good to see that in this city of festivals, the Book Fair has struck deep roots as another one of them. May it grow and prosper.



Thursday, January 15, 2026

Manusher Ghorbari

My latest trip was to a place I had only seen advertised. It is a large farmhouse cum homestay facility close to Labhpur in Birbhum, little more than a two-hour drive. It is called Manusher Ghorbari (after the novel by Atin Bandyopadhyay), owned and run by Sri Aniket Chattopadhyay, filmmaker, news editor of Kolkata TV and YouTuber (his popular channel is named Banglabazar) along with his wife Sahana and a team of dedicated young locals eager to please. It was a most pleasant two-night stay.

As all readers of my little travelogues know, I love wandering, but long vacations to faraway places take a heavy toll on the pocket, as well on my time and dwindling reserves of energy, so I can do them only twice a year, or maybe three at most. And yet I find it painful to stay home for too long at a stretch. So I keep searching for pretty, quiet and not-yet-so-hot idylls nearby. A decade ago you found them only in the hills; now, homestays are coming up all over south Bengal. Just the right sort of thing for people who want short breathers amidst silence, pure air, vast open spaces and greenery.

We took one mud house and one regular room, because I wanted to get a taste of both. Only young Aveek the soon to be doctor accompanied us; everyone else in my gang of favourites being currently very busy. Arriving at the property just after 11 a.m., we had a sumptuous Bengali lunch on traditional kansa (bell metal) utensils, mostly made out of things grown on site. Then, the huge lakeside garden beckoning, we dozed for a while in the mellow sunshine before turning in for a late siesta. The evening passed in leisurely fashion, with hearty adda and a bit of music, followed by a heavy dinner: if the hosts can be faulted on anything at all, it is that they insist we gorge ourselves (or maybe that is what the typical guest expects). But as they promised, the water drawn from an underground aquifer is really so good (no longer a common thing anywhere in India) that we were hungry for breakfast. 

On Tuesday morning we got off to a somewhat early start, visiting, in turn, the ancestral house of, and the museum dedicated to Tarashankar Bandyopadhyay, the greatest writer (besides artist, social worker, philanthrope and sometime MLC) that Birbhum has produced, at least since Chandidas. Then off to the sickle-shaped bend in the river Kopai just before it meets the Bakreshwar, made famous by the novel Hansulibanker Upokotha. That was a bit of a let down, really, but the locals said that plans are afoot to make the surroundings more well-tended and scenic. Finally, a visit to the Neel Kuthi, basically some forlorn brick ruins standing derelict amidst dense jungle: it was the jungle which enchanted me, with Ray's music playing inside my mind: e je bonyo, e oronyo... I shall never grow tired of forests, rivers and mountains. Back for bath and lunch, which was good again, though pulao is not my favourite rice dish, and the previous day's delicious routine was happily repeated until dinner. A good night's sleep, waking up lateish, a filling breakfast of hot paranthas, fried aubergine (oh come on, begoon bhaja) and nolen gurer rosogolla, and we drove off to reach Durgapur just after twelve. As always, the two days, like all joyous times, had passed in a flash. I think everybody, ma included, enjoyed it thoroughly.

If you ask for the USP of this homestay/resort, my answer will be that though both Mr. and Mrs. Chatterjee are busy working people, and we stayed with them during working days, they not only made it a point to give us company during every meal (it would have started becoming embarrassing if I had stayed for another day) but we quickly developed enough rapport to engage in serious conversation covering a wide range of subjects - which is saying a lot, given that I am at heart a very private person who avoids talk with strangers unless invited. I was also glad to know that it is pet friendly, and that they do not welcome visitors who want to play earsplitting music on 'DJ boxes'. I hope this kind of publicity won't make it too crowded and raucous for peaceloving folks like me. Visit on weekdays: you are almost sure to get a booking even if you call just two days in advance, unless it is holiday time. You can contact Mr. Chatterjee directly. His phone number is 94349 48504.

I am almost done travelling this season: one more trip perhaps, and I shall sit back and brace myself for summer.

For some photos, click here.

Sunday, January 04, 2026

Jolly LLB 3

I just watched a new Akshay Kumar movie on Netflix: Jolly LLB 3. I have grown to like this fellow, for all his slapstick and earthiness and splayed-tooth laugh - there is a kind of decency, sincerity and social urgency about many of the roles he has played that appeal strongly to something in me. I have enjoyed movies like Airlift, Toilet: ek premkatha, and OMG. Better in many simple but touching ways than much of the pretentious trash we see on screen these days. 

The storyline, though, is what really had me glued. It is about how filthy rich land sharks are gobbling up large pieces of our rural hinterland at throwaway prices, and that too with money borrowed from public sector banks (certainly not their own mehnat ki kamai, as the lawyer demonstrated in court), then 'developing' these places at enormous profit to build an airport here, a golf course there, a mine elsewhere and a luxury housing estate somewhere else. Very often they abuse the 'system' in every way they can on their way to piling up their ever-bulging fortunes, from co-opting public servants to bribing and threatening and occasionally even killing off those who stand in the way, be they journalists or the police, judges, recalcitrant villagers or NGOs helping them. And always, their slogan is that someone must 'sacrifice' a little so that the country can 'progress', as long as the sacrificers are the poorest and most vulnerable. Indeed, such is the logic of capitalism that they have the most hotshot lawyers and journos and even the occasional lawmaker to argue plausibly and strenuously on their behalf, for very hefty fees, of course: there is an 'eminent professional economist' on their payroll in this movie who has done very nicely for himself by selling 'expert advice' to his clients.

The movie was made in feel-good style, so the bullet-hit district magistrate arrives on a stretcher to give damning testimony in court, the lawyer duo plead earnestly, cleverly and convincingly, the ageing and trouble-avoiding judge, goaded beyond endurance by the tycoon's offensive arrogance (can you actually call a judge a clown and and idiot to his face in open court in India, however rich and powerful you are?), gives a stern and just verdict, the project is abandoned, the determined old woman who had stubbornly fought for her rights is shown respect and compensated to some extent, and the villagers celebrate with Holi colours, so all is hunky dory.

The good thing about the movie is that such a story can still be told in India, where it comes so close to reality in criticizing the kind of shameless and rapacious crony capitalism that has now taken root. And, well, Netflix has not (yet) been ordered to take it down. This is the kind of movie that can open many eyes, especially in a country where so many of us prefer to stay blind for as long as we can (indeed, so many of us have been conditioned to admire and salivatingly fawn upon such robber barons as great 'success stories' to be hero worshipped). The sad part of reality is two-fold. One, a mere district judge's verdict can easily be overturned in a higher court if you have the right kind of money and connections - that is how our 'democracy' functions. Two, most people are so trivially affected by such stories that the effect does not last beyond a few days or weeks, so there is little hope that, regardless of the good intentions of the storytellers (I deeply admire their idealistic perseverance), it will create the kind of lasting public awareness, caution and outrage which can permanently put shackles on the kind of vastly powerful predators who today absolutely dominate our society. Haven't such stories been told before? Remember Rang de Basanti and 3 Idiots?

P.S.: Surprising and most ticklish irony - the movie has been financed by Star Studios, a subsidiary of Jio Star, and everybody knows who is the head honcho of Jio. He financed the film?! Why on earth?